The daily digest of Twin Cities culture | Secrets of the City

Guest writer Beth Hammarlund is editor in chief of l'étoile magazine and much buzzed-about sci-fi/beauty blogger at A Tiny Machine.

The joke is that it's always Fashion Week somewhere. Whether you're in Rio de Janeiro, Dubai or Sydney, you're guaranteed to find hungry models being pinned into one-of-a-kind pieces in a crowded backstage dressing area. But despite the increasingly prolific nature of fashion weeks, the top four cities remain consistent. Paris is famous for its artistry and drama. London gives us our fix of fresh, edgy talent. Milan brings the sex appeal and the Prada. But the cornerstone of modern fashion design still resides in the kick-off city of New York.

Last year, the sartorial Nostradamus Marc Jacobs presented an undergarment-inspired collection that embraced sheer fabrics and dramatic cutouts. This week's spring collections have followed suit. Y-3, the collaboration between Yohji Yamamoto and Adidas, happily embraced these trends, including sheer tees featuring a Wayfarer-esque screen print that will have hipster boys and girls chomping at the bit. Narcisco Rodriguez presented body-conscious dresses with sharp daring cutouts and banding that surpassed his previous accomplishments with negative space.

Thakoon Panichgul (who designed the shift Michelle Obama wore on the last day of the Democratic National Convention, and who's also from my Nebraska hometown) sent out delicate floral cocktail dresses in gentle shapes with artful cutouts and sheer blocks. The fluid fabrics fell gracefully around the models' hips, creating feminine curves where there were none to be had. He also sent out variations of his signature tailored cropped top, as well as transparent harem pants (a look that the potential first lady will probably not partake in during the coming months). The collection's sheer flowy finale dress featured painfully intricate pleating and left me with a distinctive urge to dramatically smash a champagne flute into a roaring fireplace.

Loose silhouettes dominated the runways, which were packed with dolman sleeves and voluminous trousers. Harem pants abounded, ranging from shiny and constructed to sheer and fluttery. (Maggie Gyllenhaal, who was skewered for wearing a Proenza Schouler tunic and harem pants to the Costume Institute Gala this spring, is having a good laugh at her critics right about now.) Nicole Miller worked menswear-inspired versions into her Voodoo print line, while Doo-Ri Chung experimented with the trend in elegantly draped jersey. Thick fabric headwraps accessorized Erin Fetherston's ethereal collection, a welcome surprise to those of us still lamenting the passing of Prada's satin turbans from Spring 2007. Though one combines a turban and harem pants at her own genie-in-a-bottle risk.

Florals were a delightful, albeit predictable trend for spring. Watercolor flowers were seen at Jenni Kayne and Behnaz Sarafpour, while English roses bloomed at Tracy Reese. The hippie floral prints at Diane von Furstenberg were accessorized with blossom-adorned headbands fit for any modern flower child, and Marchesa featured orchid accents painstakingly molded out of feathers. Pastels dominated the runways, complimented by variations of poppy red and persimmon that popped up at Carolina Herrera, BCBG Max Azria and Jason Wu. However, it was Jonathan Saunders who emerged as the master colorist of the week. His bright washes and geometric prints were a bright counterpoint to the understated colors found on the majority of the runways. Thankfully, the designer will be bringing his admirable palette to Target this October for the chain's Go International line.

Proenza Schouler was on trend with pale creams and pastels, but balanced the softness with a hard dose of silver sequins and black leather. Their tunics and parachute trousers echoed the loose silhouettes that dominated the runway all week, but the duo wove in a distinctive 80's influence with dramatic shoulder pads and zipper details. With their red lipstick and deep side-parts, the models slithering down the runway were equal parts Jerry Hall and Robert Palmer video girl. Alexander Wang continued his reign as the king of dark urban dressing, though a recent trip to Florida inspired him to play with splashes of bright aqua, peach and lavender. The result was delightfully Don Johnson.

One of the surprises of the week was Isaac Mizrahi, who showed an insect metamorphosis-inspired collection peppered with self-referential pieces. The clever result was half tribute and half private joke for those who have followed his career over the past two decades. A particular success was the delicate re-working of his signature bustiers that were supermodel staples in the 90's.

Rompers and jumpsuits made regular appearances throughout the week. From DKNY to Derek Lam to Anna Sui, they continued to pop up without mercy. Show me a woman who believes she can pull off a romper without looking contrived and/or infantalized, and I will show you a woman with delusions of grandeur. Jumpsuits, while more sophisticated, can be equally tricky. Gossip Girl actress Blake Lively attended the Miss Sixty show in a rumpled green number that did nothing to flatter her enviable figure. Ladies, if Serena van der Woodsen struggles with this trend, you need to tread carefully. However, it's no doubt an easier look to incorporate into one's wardrobe than see-through pants.

The most influential decade of the week was unquestionably the 40's, which were present in the boudoir-esque offerings of a multitude of designers. Marc Jacobs drew influence from the decade's more structured shapes (perhaps even nodding back to 1939's The Women), presenting a collection rooted in various aspects of Americana. However, this influence was only one aspect in an extensive collage of references. The melting pot collection mixed florals, stripes and metallics, while including plaids and over-sized safety pins that harkened back to Mr. Jacobs' legendary grunge-inspired line for Perry Ellis. Hiked hemlines (which also appeared at Michael Kors and Oscar de la Renta) gave potentially conservative cuts a sexy modern edge. Ruffled prairie skirts and apron tunics were paired with straw boaters fit for a modern suffragette. The designer, a long-time Hillary Clinton supporter, seemed to be giving a nod to multiple eras of can-do feminism. Whether it was a conscious message or a happy coincidence, it was a collection that celebrated strong self-reliant women, without sacrificing style and femininity.

 

 

For more NY Fashion Week Coverage visit www.style.com