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Raghavan Iyer: Om's Culineer

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Raghavan IyerI called Raghavan Iyer to find out about his new restaurant project, OM, scheduled to open in late May or early June in the former Nate's clothing store in the Minneapolis Warehouse district, but first he wanted to tell me about his cookbook, 660 Curries: The New York Times, NPR, Boston Globe and Food and Wine have all named it as one of the best cookbooks of 2008, and now he is waiting to hear whether it will also win a prestigious James Beard Award - the winners will be announced in a couple of weeks.

Iyer says the owners of OM - Vik Uppal and Randy Norman (formerly of r. Norman's Steakhouse) - came up with an interesting title to describe his role: "culineer, short for culinary engineer. My role is more than a chef, it's really orchestrating the sensuality of the food, and the whole mix of how it is presented and all that. The definition - a person who constructs by use of culinary expertise and knowledgeable means the art and science of good eating."

 To judge by the photos on the website, it is going to be quite a stylish setting. The menu will feature contemporary cuisine from all regions of India, unlike anything currently offered in the Twin Cities, says Raghavan, and all based on recipes in Raghavan's cookbooks. "Contemporary doesn't mean expensive. It is going be very affordable and presented in a manner that is very recognizable, but not the usual - if you come there expecting tandoori chicken, you are not going to find it.... and no buffet." Iyer plans to make as much use of local and sesasonal ingredients as possible, as well as sustainably harvested seafood - he was recently named Seafood Ambassador for the Monterey Bay Aquarium, which publishes handy pocket guides to sustainable fish consumption.

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