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Rinata is Italian for reborn, which makes it a fitting name for the new trattoria at 2451 Hennepin Ave. in Uptown. When the last Giorgio's closed at that location this summer, it felt like the end of an era.

Giorgio Cherubini deserves credit for introducing the Twin Cities to authentic northern Italian cuisine when he opened Hosteria Fiorentina in 1987. In the years that followed, Cherubini opened a succession of Giorgio's - first on Hennepin, then on Lake Street and France Ave. Giorgio's on Hennepin was always the best of these, but by the time it closed, it seemed to have run out of energy.

The new Rinata revives a lot of what I liked about the old Giorgio's - the romantic setting, the affordable prices, and above all the style of cooking - simple, authentic, with bold and lively flavors. The resemblance to Al Vento is even stronger - the new owners are Jonathan Hunt, chef-owner of Al Vento, and Amor Hantous, formerly a waiter at the Longfellow neighborhood trattoria. One difference: Al Vento specializes in southern Italian cuisine, while Rinata features dishes from all over Italy.

We only sampled a few dishes from Rinata's, but enjoyed all of them. The bruschetta with calamari, shrimp and tomato is pungent with raw garlic, rubbed into the toasted bread before the toppings are added. The Caesar salad (not really Italian, but universal in Italian restaurants these days) seemed more subtle and understated than the usual versions. But the real highlights of the evening were the pastas - all house-made. The tagliatelle with duck ragu was hearty and intensely flavorful, while the fettucine with clams and garlic was so tasty that, lacking spoons, we used the empty shells to scoop up the last drops of the clam liquor. Prices are very reasonable - all of the pizzas are under $10; all of the pastas are under $15, and you can get a glass of the house red or white for $5. (Full bar.) 

We didn't have room for any of the desserts - tiramisu, cannoli, or a pine njut tart - but we will gladly return - maybe on a Sunday night, when a special four-course menu is offered for $20. Happy Hour sounds like a good deal, too: $2 off of anything on the menu - offered from 4:30 to 6 p.m., and from 10 p.m. to closing, with $2 off of everything on the menu. Open nightly. 

 

Rinata Restaurant, 2451 Hennepin Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612-374-8998