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Breaking Bread

Heures Joyeuses Chez Vincent

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I bellied up to the bar at Vincent A Restaurant yesterday evening, and started to dig into what has to rate as the best happy hour deal in town: tap beers and wines by the glass for $3, appetizers for $3.50-$4, and the Vincent burger, stuffed with braised short rib for $8 (regularly $12.75). The happy hour, or heures joyeuses, runs Monday to Friday from 4:30 to 6:30 p.m.

I ordered Joe's Potato Hot Dish, a small cast-iron kettle filled with baby fingerling potatoes in a creamy chorizo and melted cheddar sauce ($3.50), and a socca, a thin chickpea pancake filled with shrimp, chorizo salami, parmesan and chevre ($4), washed down with a glass of Aramis Tannat-Cabernet blend.

Halfway through this little feast, up walks Vincent, with only one arm visible, making the rounds of the tables in the bar. It turns out he recently broke his collarbone in a bike accident, so his usefulness in the kitchen is limited. I started grilling him about restaurant news, and learned that Vincent plans to open a patio on the Nicollet mall by Memorial Day weekend, if the gods and city inspectors approve. Francoual still plans to compete in a triathlon in Paris in June, and in his annual team triathlon ride in support of Fraser, a local non-profit that serves special needs children and adults, in July.

This Thursday, as part of his Minnesota Chef Series, he's teaming up with a young chef, Justin Schoville, from a hot new restaurant in Rochester called Sontes. Schoville will lead off with courses of octopus crumb cake with citrus, spiced cocoa and mint; and monkfish cheeks a la plancha, while Francoual will dish up the last two courses, a duo of roasted rabbit loin and rabbit shoulder; and a citrus tart with lemon sabayon. Cost is $60 all inclusive without wine, or $80 with wines. Call the restaurant at 612-630-1189 for reservations.

I was already pretty well stuffed when Vincent sent over another dish for me to try - a half order of his stuffed pig trotters appetizer ($12.75). The pigs feet are cooked "sous vide" (in a vacuum pouch at very low temperature) for 24 hours, and then combined into a forcemeat with ground pork, and served over cannelini beans with a quail egg, sunny-side up, and a subtle hint of aromatic black truffle sauce. Magnifique!

There's lots more on the happy hour I would like to try, including the flat bread topped with smoked chicken, carmelized onions, blue cheese and red grapes; the breaded fried walleye fingers (which looked irresistible from a distance), and the seared chicken morsels marinated in coconut milk.

4 Reader Comments

Sarah (not verified)12:56pm
Apr 23
There's nothing to criticize in the burger, but I thought the Joe's Potato crock was a heavy slurry of starch and grease, and the flat bread happy hour app I tried was drab.
Cristina Cordova12:15pm
Apr 28
Vincent A has pretty much become part of my Orchestra Hall routine. After a great Orchestra performance, my partner and I make our way to the bar for a carafe of pinot noir, the escargot, and the steak frites with béarnaise sauce. It's the perfect topper for an already beautiful evening. Mmm.
Rich Goldsmith04:54pm
Apr 28
I've honestly never had anything bad at Vincent. I love the beet carpaccio, the burger is the ultimate rainy day food, and having brought members of a rugby club there, I have to say that something about it makes it a beautiful place to get tipsy on beer and wine whilst discussing the glory days.
Chris Birt09:53am
Apr 30
Chris Birt I have never had a bad meal and actually have had one of only a few, world-class meals there frequently. It compares to anywhere--meaning, and I am not kidding, Tokyo, Milan (hardly the gastronomic capital of Italy, I realize) Paris (pretty bad stuff in a lot of places) and Stockholm (fabulous cuisine there, better than London....but I digress). As epicureans know a world-class meal includes impeccable, unobtrusive yet attentive and lavish service. That is why the best family restaurant in Paris will not be a three-star restaurant. And, yes, that means the service and food have both been world-class at Vincent--from first bite to final palette cleanser. And, and, the burger with the sirloin tips ground in is peerless.

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