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There's nothing new here. W.A. Frost has been winning awards for years: from Wine Spectator, Gourmet, various local publications, and Zagat. The newest honor is from Wine Enthusiast Magazine — an award of "unique distinction" for Frost's nearly Bible-size wine list. And it's well-deserved.

But what strikes me about this restaurant is that. . . .well. . . .there's nothing new here. And yet, it's hip. Whereas other vintage eateries with cozy fireplaces and ropes of twinkly Christmas lights veer toward the quaint and precious, W.A. Frost can pull it off. Yes, this is the sort of place where I could take my 70-year-old mom (and she'd love it). But it's also a popular date spot, and the lounge — with its tin ceiling and stately oak-and-marble bar — is a terrific place to cluster over warm hors d'oeuvres and wine.

Prompted by this latest award, I did exactly that, stopping in one night when the snow was sifting down outside. I met a friend and we ordered two flights: a triad of Grüner Veltliners, from Austria; and a matching set of California Zins. The flights were $12 apiece for three very healthy pours.

The gru-vees (as Frost's wine list calls them) included:

Nikolaihof "Hefeabzug" Wachau 2006 -- a biodynamic wine with a strong water base, touched with the flavors of teak, straw, and yogurt, with a finish of orange and peach.

Hirsch "Trinkvergnügen #5" Kamptal 2006 -- a clean, dry, ever-so-slightly fizzy wine from the Kamptal area that tastes vegetal, like sweet pea, and has a hint of wet rock

E & M Berger Kremstal 2006 -- a hearty white with the salty taste of sweat (I mean this in a good way: like when you kiss a baby on the neck), plus a little celery and tree

The Zinfandels were a more ordinary lot:

Stephen Ross Dante Dusi Vineyard Paso Robles 2003 -- a thick red with lots of cigar (leaf, tobacco, and smoke), wrapped in black cherry and spice, with a full finish

Rosenblum Cellars, San Francisco Bay 2005 -- a lighter wine with layers of soft plum, cherry, soil, and faint chocolate notes

Alexander Valley Vineyards "Sin Zin" 2005 -- a slightly yeasty and pedestrian red filled with cedar, black pepper, licorice, and fruit

I'm usually actually fonder of a glass (or bottle) than a flight, because I like to concentrate on a single wine -- and then on the conversation at hand. Had I been in a more prosaic mood that night, Frost certainly could have accommodated my every desire. Their 18-page list offers everything from a $26 Riesling to a $350 Sicilian red. And individual glasses range from $6.75 for a Blanco Protocolo to $18 for an Alexander Valley Cab.

Sitting in the bar at Frost under soft lantern light, watching the snow fall gently on Selby Avenue, you might imagine you're there to meet Zelda and F. Scott, only their carriage was slowed by the storm. Ignore for a moment the teenagers sitting next to you who are covered with body piercings and tattoos. They're from another time.