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I have a friend named Ann Bauer.

That's not, actually, as coincidental as it sounds. We met because I used to write things for Salon that made people angry and as my phone number is unlisted (because I write things that make people angry) and hers is not, people would call and shout at her. My old college friends would ring her up looking for me, wondering why I was writing about things like motorcycle racing and lesbian affairs. . . .

So one day this other Ann Bauer tracked me down to say, "We should meet." And we did.

Turned out she was - and is - everything I'm not but admire: tall and statuesque, well-coiffed, a little on the brassy side. Also, she was a foodie who'd been getting really good tables for about two years by saying ANN BOW-er, very pointedly, every time she made reservations. I love that kind of ingenuity. Within weeks, we were the closest friends. We call each other "AB" and "OAB" (for the other Ann Bauer) and each of us can be either, depending upon which one speaks first.

So anyhow, when Jeremy Iggers sent out a call back in July, asking readers to comment on their experiences at the newly-opened Citizen Cafe, he got a note from my friend Ann Bauer who lives in the neighborhood (whom he pointed out in his column was not THE Ann Bauer - thanks for the vote of confidence, J). She'd already talked to me about this restaurant, saying it was underwhelming: "It's the first time I've ever picked up a salt shaker in a nice restaurant," she said.

I'll admit, I was put off. I trust AB. Plus, I'd read a couple early reviews of Citizen Cafe and they were mixed - a kind of "marks for effort" message for chef Michael McKay, but generally less than four stars.

Well here I am, the OAB (in this case) to say: Things have changed!

I've been to Citizen Cafe twice in the past month. Maybe they paid attention to early reports and cleaned up their act. Maybe reviewers (including my friend, AB) just happened to visit and hit the only glitches in service and food. I just don't know. What I do know is, this is my new favorite place.

First, it's humble. Totally Craftsman but in the right way, with vintage light fixtures and dark wood and plain tables covered in cloths and butcher paper (which saves big time on water usage) and bursts of garlic-laced steam emanating from the back.

Second, the service is just lovely in that French maiden manner. Girls with long red braids, wearing white aprons, serving plates they have stacked on their arms.

Third, of course, is the food. I've not had a bad. . . .well. . . .anything at the Citizen Cafe. Roasted vegetables, steamed scallops, sandwiches, they're all just plump and beautifully presented and pretty much untouched if they don't need touching, which good, fresh veggies and seafood often don't.

Mostly, though, I love this place because I want to sit there all afternoon: start a lazy lunch at one and slide right through until four o'clock when, whoops!, it's the cocktail hour and time for wine. Citizen Cafe is open straight through the day, rather than shuttering at 2:30 and kicking everyone out. And the best part is, this is the time when you're likely to see McKay - chef and owner - up on a ladder, hanging a curtain at the front door so the cold wind won't come in.

Citizen Cafe - 2403 E 38th St Minneapolis, MN 55406  (612) 729-1122